The next morning we headed for late breakfast/early lunch in this tiny tangle of streets. There was a line to this corner noodle stall with only counter service – about 8 or 9 stools – and a fast turnover of mostly men, slurping quickly and loudly. I sat down in the middle of all these guys and looked to see what they were eating. When the guys behind the counter offered me a choice of udon or soba noodles, I chose the brown ones (soba), because that’s what everybody around me was eating. The guys behind the counter laughed, said what I can only assume is Japanese for “great choice!,” made other approving sounds and gave me the thumbs up. They asked me if I wanted tempura, then egg, then broth and each time I said “of course!” since that’s what everybody else had around me. I’m not sure what the tempura was, exactly, a jumble of vegetables maybe? We all had to eat separately due to the counter situation, and even though I was the third one to sit down, none of my other pals got that kind of reception, which was fun for me. :)
At this counter there was no time for good manners. Also no time for spoons! You have to eat quickly before the tempura gets soggy. So I was trying to keep up with my neighbors, but I’m not good at slurping and I was a mess. Broth, egg and scallions everywhere, including all over my shirt and the guy next to me’s shirt (sorry, dude!). I was doing the universal sheepish-shrug-and-smile to basically everybody about the mess and the guys behind the counter just kept laughing and handed me tissues. It was a fun interaction with just a great, great dish of noodles, even though we still aren’t sure exactly what it was!
Later we went on a Harajuku hunt! It’s a shopping neighborhood where young people with a certain visual style gather. We didn’t have much luck – but we found an interesting character in a MAC cosmetics of all places! She was an older woman with wire cat ears, rainbow tights, pink hair, beads and sequins everywhere, even on her face, platform pinks tennis shoes and a crazy rainbow back pack. There was so much going on I didn’t even notice half of it, and it was so quick none of us could snap a pic. We’re hoping to try again on Sunday morning (a supposed day for harajuku hang outs) before we fly out.
A rainy day, so we hit the Edo-Tokyo Museum. It was huge, with all sorts of interactive, moving and miniature displays. We ended up spending way longer than anticipated there! Edo is what Tokyo was called before it was the capital. The museum is right next to the sumo stadium, and when we were leaving we saw a giant guy in traditional robe, wooden shoes and a top knot getting on the metro. Sumos have to constantly wear the traditional garb and live a traditional lifestyle (plus metro?) until they retire.
Next we hit the Sky Tree but it was too foggy to see the top, so we didn’t feel the need to pay to go up and check out the view. We did stumble across an all you can eat dessert buffet in the mall below the sky tree, but I seemed to be the only one interested! :)
Finally, an answer to the age old question: how can you make a giant freeze-dried squid kid friendly?
We realized we were near an owl cafe, so of course that’s where we headed next. We had to take an elevator to the 5th floor, and the doors opened into a jungle. I was very apprehensive about the whole thing (birds are scary, y’all!) but everybody else seemed excited. It was a small/medium sized room – think master bedroom ish – but filled with fake plants, a couple of aquariums, a tiny tiny monkey by the cash register and birds everywhere. Some so still that you’d think they were fake until they looked right at you. Some were leashed, some were not. Some were tiny, some were HUGE. There was a pop Christmas song playing on loop, and the Disney movie Anastasia, also playing on loop on a big screen. We sat down and a girl just brought a bird up to us, put an oven mitt on our hands and plopped a bird on our hands! Then after a while she came and took the bird away and gave it to another person. I was the last one to accept an owl, and while I was holding it the owl next to me tried to bite me! There was a giant owl in the corner, and I asked if it was really old – turns out only about 4 months. That sucker was huge and not leashed – apparently allowed to fly around whenever. Luckily he didn’t try while we were there.
Having held one bird, I was feeling brave. “Bring me the biggest bird you’ve got!” I exclaimed. My pals were shocked, but the girl brought over Benjamin. He was pretty heavy, and I was pretty uneasy, but I did it! Then Benny was passed off to John – and the girl walked away for like ten minutes. John’s arm was getting tired, and ol Benny had an accident on John’s pants, and the lady still wouldn’t come take the bird. It was pretty funny (mostly because it wasn’t me).
Breakfast adventure! Grabbed some things from the konbini. Still not sure what I ate?
First stop of the day: the Meiju Shrine. A huge, beautiful green space right in the heart of the city, we were shocked when we walked up. The trees are giant, the city noise drowned out and – since we got there early – hardly any people. It was so unexpected and great. Plus, we’re pretty sure we saw the emperor! (A guy in a pretty serious get up, with security and a line of monks scurrying behind him being lead into a random tent set up on the grounds of the temple. Count it!)
This shrine and park is dedicated to the Emperor who opened Japan to the west, the current Emperor’s great granddad. People dedicated trees that were hand planted, and the garden was designed so that it will re-populate itself. It’s only 100 or so years old but it’s already got tons of indigenous species growing and you can’t tell at all most of it was transplanted.
Still in green space mode, we headed toward the Shinjuku gardens. We popped out of the metro talking about lunch and my gut said EAT HERE:
There was a guy in the window making the actual udon noodles, a line (but not too long!) of Japanese people waiting to order, and a quick how-to in English of the ordering process.
I got noodles with a raw egg (unexpected from the picture!), with only a tiny bit of hot water left from cooking the noodles. John’s noodles had broth and a poached egg. You could also choose pieces of tempura as your side, cafeteria style. I was a little weary about the raw egg but the hot noodles cooked it a little and it was delicious. The noodles were the perfect texture – thick and not too chewy. It was a great lunchtime score!
Across the street was the Shinjuku Gyoen (means garden), which had this green house filled with all types of plants and flowers. The grounds also housed traditional English and French gardens, but we were most interested in the traditional Japanese garden area. There were manicured but natural looking plants, flowers and trees, with some tea houses, ponds with koi and people relaxing or picnicking everywhere.
a cacao plant flowering!
At one of the tea houses, we paid a vending machine for a tea ticket and went inside. It was a plain room with hard wooden benches and plain wooden tables. We were each served a tiny sweet – not sure what the filling was, but I suspect red bean. Then we were served each a bowl of matcha. It was nice to check it out, but we suspect tourist trap! Or we just weren’t there during traditional tea time.
We headed to the metro again only to find one of the greatest vending machines so far. It was cold drinks, you could choose with or without ice (we did some experimenting to find that out!), and hot drinks. It poured it into a cup and then a little door opened automatically. I got a small cup of Coke with no ice, and John got a cup of grape juice with ice. It was the perfect tiny treat! Neither of us was brave enough to try the corn drink, though!
We were on a tall, steep up escalator when we saw some familiar faces headed our way on the down stairs. The rest of our crow hopped back on the up escalator and we joined the rest of the tourists in a two story Starbucks to watch The Scramble. It’s a crazy five section intersection called Shibuya crossing. The funniest part was watching tourists cross it with selfie sticks or stopping to take pictures in the middle of the road.
Next we headed downstairs to the Food Show, like a fancy food hall. We watched a girl make takoyaki, which are balls of fried dough with a piece of octopus inside. There were $8 apples and $140 cantaloupes. We tried cheesecake, sweet red beans (no thanks!), a tiny spoonful of roe so salty that it was spicy (!) and fish of all different preparations.
We had dinner in a neighborhood called Ebisu. Again, went with my gut and popped in this tiny restaurant. It wasn’t quite full of people and we were sat at the counter, but the longer we say we noticed more and more people were coming in with reservations. First we were served a plate of cabbage with some sort of fish/soy sauce stuff drizzled on, then more yakatori: this time we got smoked cheese with grilled bread, shiitake, chicken thighs, chicken wings, asparagus wrapped in pork, okra, and pork back with wasabi. It all came out at different times, and the guy would just hand the skewers to us as they were done cooking. Simple, delicious and fun.
“Arigato, arigato! Domo arigato, it was so great, awesome dude!” (I got a little excited) And this guy, who basically hadn’t indicated he knew English or anything, said “See you tomorrow!” It totally made my night.
Because of our, ahem, early bedtime, we all woke up at about 3 am and decided to try for the fish market. We missed the tuna auction (seats are limited and rumored to basically be all taken by about 4), but wanted to walk around anyway. It’s basically a fend-for-yourself situation, since it’s a commercial operation. Cyclists, truck drivers and especially these guys on yellow fork lifts without the fork zoomed by, honking with no thought of slowing. IRL Frogger – less fun than the video game implies!
ruthless!
Turns out, the fish market isn’t open to the public until 9, but the outer market and the breakfast sushi places were open. We chose one that was playing Abba and The Eagles, were immediately brought hot green tea and we pointed to the words “today’s recommendation” on the menu to order.
We had a few more minutes until nine, so when we walked by a booth serving two pieces of o-toro tuna for 600 yen (apparently goes for much higher in the US), we snagged one and ate it standing right there. It might have been my favorite piece of fish all morning!
We walked around some more, got some samples and checked out some really great vending machines.
Time to tackle the big boy (and I mean big! We never made all the way through the building): Tsujiki Fish Market. Tunas bigger than me, wiggling sea creatures, knives, swords and bandsaws fileting fish, and blood and guts everywhere.
Wanting to check out a different neighborhood, we headed toward Ueno Park in search of an Azalea Festival. We stopped for ice cream, where we had our first vending machine/person service experience. These machines are everywhere – you put in your money, chose what you want and it prints a ticket for you to give the counter person. They have them in noodle shops, sushi restaurants, ice cream stands and all kinds of other places. Then we stumbled upon a ‘Traditional Arts & Crafts’ fair. The booths where demonstrating how to make Daruma dolls, write your name in Japanese alphabet characters, throwing star practice, and a booth to try on a kimono. We got some strangely long french fries topped with cod roe and mayo (pretty good) and Wagyu beef skewers (VERY good), and watched an acrobatic monkey show, until I got too bummed thinking about that monkey’s life.
We headed to a different park nearby for the azaleas!
When we got home to rest and recuperate, the school behind us was holding after school baseball practice. Let me tell you, those kids were noisy! Just shouting the ENTIRE time, but not in like a little kid way. We have a theory that that’s just how they play baseball – tbd when we head to the diamond on Saturday.
We headed towards Shinjuku, the busy commercial area where we found the tiny streets full of tiny restaurants yesterday to finally get some yakatori in a tiny, TINY smoky restaurant. Yakatori is just grilled things on sticks – skewers cooked over coal just right there on the counter. The cook/server/cashier/ONLY EMPLOYEE (guess he’s all that would fit in there) gave us a plate of edamame and we ordered what looked like the greatest hits special set. Fish balls, chicken thighs, pork hearts, plus my two favorites: blistered green peppers and these really great chicken wings.
Well it took 30 hours of travel, our first vending machine stop, and some friends at the konbini (the convenient store – they pulled out a phone book of maps (?) and got us on the right path) to get to the apartment.
drinking some good ol Pocari Sweat, an ion replinishing, gatorade-type drink (but less sweet, hey i was tired and kind of thought it was water)
Sarah and Matt were already asleep and we were exhausted, trying to be quiet and keep it dark – so I thought I was dreaming when I discovered the toilet.
No soap or anything, so what is that sink for?! Still haven’t figured it out. But that first night I stood in there for what felt like forever, trying to figure out how to turn it off.
Our sleep was all wonky, so we woke up at six am and hit our local 7-11 for some fried chicken and green juice for breakfast. (It’s a thing here!)
We walked around for a bit, went to exchange a little cash at tourist information and WE MET A ROBOT. It’s name was Happy.
Shortly after that, I got trapped in a bidet. Yeah, you heard me. I’m in a public restroom, checking out all the buttons when I find the sprayer. I’m already giggling when I realized I can’t find the off button and start to panic. I can’t stand up because the water will spray everywhere. Sarah is outside the stall, asking me what’s wrong but I can’t really hear her over the sound of the bidet and my laughter. So she starts laughing, then I laugh harder and snort, then a Japanese lady starts laughing and I can’t even see the buttons anymore and the whole thing was ridiculous. I escaped, relatively dry.
We walked around Shinjuku, which had huge buildings and loud billboards everywhere, some with …. interesting translations.
Then we walked around the outside of the Imperial Grounds, the old palace and gardens surrounded by a moat, right in the middle of the city. Quite the contrast!
Time for another pit stop. We were near the Palace Tokyo Hotel so I share my top secret tip for using hotel lobby amenities: act like you’re supposed to be there and nobody will question you. We played it cool as we located what turned out to be the fanciest toilets ever! So many buttons and I used them all – a seat warmer, bidet varieties and options, a blow dryer! Being a fancy hotel for tourists, the off button was clearly marked on this toilet. :)
Lunchtime: We went looking for a yakatori (grilled things on sticks!) restaurant nearby in a multi-level food court, but couldn’t find it. What we did find was a tiny shop with about five or six stools filled with suited men leaned over steaming bowls slurping in front of a guy dishing out ramen – we gave up the yakatori search pretty easily after seeing that. Delicious! I got the classic, John got the spicy and some dumplings. All very good. The place only sat 16 people (6 tables – we had to split up the crew just to fit) plus the counter. The table was pre-set with a pitcher of some sort of tea – we’re still not sure what flavor it was but it was great. We were asked noodle firmness preference – she recommended al dente, and it was the right choice for sure. The egg yolk was bright orange, the broth creamy but not overly fatty, the strange condiments plentiful and men in suits sporting lobster-eating kind of bibs.
Full after lunch, we tried to find the “scramble,” this crazy pedestrian intersection in the Shibuya area. We ended up walking around a commercial area, just soaking it all in. We happened upon a network of these small alley-like streets with tiny little restaurant, tucked in less than a block away from giant buildings and shopping centers.
After wandering for a while, we tried to find a place to grab a drink, fire up the wifi and regroup. Where we ended up served us a round of drinks and an amuse bouche of cold potato salad with chopsticks in a smoky, low ceilinged place. Wasn’t quite the place we had in mind, but it was strange and weird and very Tokyo-esque.
Oh yeah, and we spotted Godzilla.
After that, we went to the top of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building No. 1 to check out the view. Sadly, it was too foggy to see any of the mountains but very awe inspiring to see the scope of the city.
Mt. Fuji is in the back right corner somewhere!
Since we got up so early, we went back to our apartment to rest at about 5 pm – and all slept right through dinner!
Our last ATX meal? Salt Lick breakfast tacos, of course.
Excited but sleepy, we got on the plane only to be told the plane’s battery wouldn’t hold a charge. It might be a quick fix or they might have to fly parts in. (Which seems inefficient? But maybe that’s just me.) The grumbling out loud to herself lady next to me was very upset about it, but also sleepy – so she kept trying to sleep then would sit up to shout at nobody and then curl back up again.
We got off the plane and everybody got in line to have their connecting flights rescheduled. I gave the ol’ 1-800 number a try because no time to wait! We ended up with a rerouted flight, a seven hour delay, some food vouchers AND six extra inches of leg room on our new flight to Chicago (as opposed to SF). That extra room might not sound like much but it was delightful!
Our plane to Tokyo was a huge, nine seat per row bus that was basically empty. Our dinner was lots of little containers:
Prawn and vegetable tempura over rice
Smoked salmon, mustardy potato salad, lettuce, a lemon slice, an olive, and radish slaw all in one dish
Edamame and a half slice of ham in together in another
Soba noodles served cold, with a (too?) fishy sauce packet to pour over
Packet of horseradish and tiny envelope of seaweed flakes
Topped off with Haagen Dazs vanilla ice cream for dessert and green tea, of course!
It was a strange meal, but our other version was Hungarian goulash. On the way to Japan, a hearty Eastern European stew was not exactly on my mind (er, stomach).
Visiting the Laos Unexploded Ordnances Center in Luang Prabang is a sobering experience. Per capita, Laos is still the most heavily bombed nation in the world. Even now, one person almost every day is injured or killed by unexploded ordnances in Laos – sometimes by a bomb that has been there for fifty years.
During the Vietnam War, both sides agreed that Laos would be off limits. That changed when the Viet Cong and Northern Vietnamese decided to run their supply trail, the Ho Chi Minh trail, through Laos to get supplies and men from Hanoi to the south. The trail was bombed in order to keep these supplies from reaching their destination. Laos got caught in the crossfire when the North decided to involve the country regardless of any promises it made otherwise.
At the center, they had an actual collection of bombs and bombies (submunitions from cluster bombs). Of the more than 270 million bombies dropped in Laos from 1964 to 1973, 30% failed to detonate. There were examples of the educational tools they use to teach children and adults regarding protocol and awareness. There was also a walk through of what it takes to either detonate or disarm and remove the munitions.
There were also several sad stories of personal loss. As you can imagine, each story is devastating – and those were only the few that were told in this small space. A farmer reached his hand down in his own rice paddy, where he had been farming for years, and knocked a bombie around that he didn’t know was there. The ensuing explosion blew off his arm. His wife discussed the hardship now placed on her and their children in order to replace the amount of labor and income he provided for the family – some of their children had to leave school to work the fields. He teared up as he talked about the emotional toll it takes on a man when he can’t provide for his family, and how he can’t even do household chores properly.
One story that really stuck with me was that of a young boy, visiting a village from the city. This urban child had not grown up with UXO awareness and training. He was out playing with some of the village boys, when he ran across a shiny ball kind of thing. He picked it up to show his new pals, who recognized the UXO immediately and started screaming “get rid of it, don’t touch it, drop it!” as they all took off running. Confused, he threw the bombie on the ground and was killed in the resulting explosion.
Later that night, I asked my pal Chai if he had ever seen a bomb. He told me that there are still three bombs in the village where he grew up. “Why don’t the detonator guys care of them – isn’t that their job?” I asked. “It’s too rural,” he replied, “it’s a five hour hike through the mountains to get there.”
“What do you do about it, how do you live?” I asked. “Nobody goes near them – that’s all we can do,” he said.
Then he grimly asked, “you know who most of those bombs are from, right?”
“Yeah, I know.” We looked at each other, and then changed the subject.
Four weeks later, my heart is still breaking over these stories and that conversation. What must it be to live in fear for your self, your family and friends every day? And for the cause of this fear to be something not only beyond your control but for many of those affected, it is something from a generation or two before you. A leftover from a different time.
Khàwp jai lãi lãi means thank you very much in Laos (sounds to me like hop jie la lie – but then again, I got some laughs so that might not be right!).
Tamarind is a delicious brown lumpy thing that tastes waayyy better then it looks. Also, the name of my new favorite restaurant in Laos. (Sorry, JOMA!)
Our guest house was only a block down the road from the restaurant so on our first night in town we strolled in to have dinner, and were turned away because they were full. (Must be good!) We made a reservation, and noticed a posting saying the next vacancies for the cooking class was the night class two nights away. So we signed up for the cooking class right then, too. We ate the next night, and then the class was the night after.
We began our quality time with Tamarind at dinner with a set Laos specialty menu. Lao people love them some sticky rice. They eat it with everything. The most common utensil they use is their hands, which was a nice break for my on-again, off-again chopstick skills.
The set menu started off with several kinds of jeow, which are dipping sauces for the sticky rice. There were also some sausages, water buffalo jerky and other relishes, along with these river seaweed-stuff chips that I was really digging.
not pictured: a basket of sticky rice
Next was vegetable and bamboo soup. It was alright. I didn’t really like texture of water-logged bamboo.
We had herbal fish steamed in a banana leaf.
it’s like a present!
Stir fried young pumpkin with kaffir lime and ginger and lemongrass stuffed with chicken. It looked crazy complicated. It came with this great peanut sauce that I couldn’t get enough of!
pumpkin, chicken and a goodie bag of fish!
Purple sticky rice in coconut milk with tamarind sauce and some Lao “cat poop” (terrible nickname) candy – palm sugar and rice flour I think – for dessert!
yes…just yes.
The next afternoon, we showed up at the restaurant for class. We had a glass of super-bomb lemongrass/lime aid (a lime lemongrass twist!), then hopped into a songthaew to be transported to the cooking school. It was about ten minutes’ ride to the school grounds, where the employees also live. It was besides a bubbling stream, next to a pond filled with water lilies. There were cooking stations set up under an awning in the fresh air, with a nice breeze and the sounds of the stream filling the air. There was also a garden where they grow their own fresh herbs, and stations set up with traditional flower-pot grills (hey, I just call em like I see em).
what are these called?
It turned out that we learned to cook the exact menu from the previous night, including the standard sticky rice and my favorite, the sweet purple sticky rice. I could eat that every day, so no complaints here!
learnin’
We also got to chose which jeow we made – I went with an eggplant based one and Ma went with the tomato one. There are different eggplants here than in America, and I like these much better. We grilled the vegetables before mortar-and-pestling them, so it was nice and smokey. We also gift wrapped those fish in banana leaves and steamed ’em.
wrappin’steamin’
The lemongrass stuffed with chicken was much easier than it looked. Mom’s gluten intolerance was the only food allergy, although one lady couldn’t (or wouldn’t) eat pork, and one simply refused to eat any chicken (two of my favorite things!). They simply switched ingredients around for the ladies, and even let me stuff my lemongrass with pork since we had chicken the night before.
fry captain
After all the cooking, we feasted! Besides Mom and me, there was an Australian lady planning on making the lemongrass chicken for her family’s Christmas dinner, a girl traveling solo from Singapore and a couple of older Dutch women who rolled their own cigarettes and smoked with reckless abandon (as you do). The water lillies opened up while we were eating, which I had never seen actually happen before. Magical.
yum!
I’ve really enjoyed both the cooking classes we’ve taken, but they were both two different experiences. It was nice to have other people to chat with this time, and our instructor, Chai, and I are big pals now. At dinner, we all talked about our travels and future plans, and in fact ended up on the same airplane later to Hanoi with the Australian lady and her husband.
i made these! (that’s a sticky rice basket on the right – keeps it from drying out)
We totally went back to Tamarind for lunch the next day to try something different – don’t judge! We had pork wrapped in lemongrass skewers, my favorite jeow – jeow bong, which is a sweet and spicy chili paste. Mom had a pumpkin & coconut milk soup, served with a giant rice cracker. We also got some little candies for dessert, and some cold dessert soup – coconut milk with jellies and tapioca in it.
great last lunch in laos!dessert
Before Laos, I had decided that I didn’t particularly care for the taste of lemongrass, but after the past few days I have come to like it. Maybe it’s the combinations I’ve tried here that I hadn’t had previously. I was also really into that lime lemongrass twist!
Ock Pop Top means east meets west, which is actually a good title for this entire trip I think. It is also the name of a social enterprise that seeks to empower women through their traditional skills, as well as promote Laos textile design.
intricate loom work
We made our way to one of their store fronts in Luang Prabang, and after a bit of nosing around we took advantage of the free tuk tuk ride offered to those who wish to visit the Living Crafts Centre.
Besides the two storefronts in town, there is a restaurant, weaving and dyeing classes, a few villas available for rental all out in a shaded area on the bank of Mekong River. There are artisans and weavers working away on sight, a free guided tour and a gift shop.
silk cocoons
We took a look at the silk worms and their cocoons, the dyeing process and the artisanal weavers doing their thing. The weavers come from villages to learn new weaving techniques and practice. The male role in all this is to help build looms, but an interesting thing is that they also weave bamboo and women don’t. In fact, the tour guide told me if a man can’t weave bamboo, he’s not even worth a second glance!
looks….complicated
There was also a family taking a class on dyeing, which was kind of a funny activity for two boys (the teenage girl and mom looked right at home, though!).
natural dyed colors
It was so interesting to see ladies using the loom – I still don’t get how that works! Especially ikat, where they dye the pattern on the silk before they weave it. That doesn’t even make sense to me.
ikat silk drying after dyeing
It was a nice quiet break from tourists and traffic for a while. It’s definitely worth a visit if you’re in the area you aren’t familiar with the silk weaving process.
ikat thread on a spool – looks a mess!
Since then, we have been to a couple of silk farms and other similar places, but this one was my favorite – maybe because it was really my first time seeing everything in action.