Trees & Traffic

Breakfast adventure! Grabbed some things from the konbini. Still not sure what I ate?


First stop of the day: the Meiju Shrine. A huge, beautiful green space right in the heart of the city,  we were shocked when we walked up. The trees are giant, the city noise drowned out and – since we got there early – hardly any people. It was so unexpected and great. Plus, we’re pretty sure we saw the emperor! (A guy in a pretty serious get up, with security and a line of monks scurrying behind him being lead into a random tent set up on the grounds of the temple. Count it!)

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This shrine and park is dedicated to the Emperor who opened Japan to the west, the current Emperor’s great granddad. People dedicated trees that were hand planted, and the garden was designed so that it will re-populate itself. It’s only 100 or so years old but it’s already got tons of indigenous species growing and you can’t tell at all most of it was transplanted.

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Still in green space mode, we headed toward the Shinjuku gardens. We popped out of the metro talking about lunch and my gut said EAT HERE:

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There was a guy in the window making the actual udon noodles, a line (but not too long!) of Japanese people waiting to order, and a quick how-to in English of the ordering process.

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I got noodles with a raw egg (unexpected from the picture!), with only a tiny bit of hot water left from cooking the noodles. John’s noodles had broth and a poached egg. You could also choose pieces of tempura as your side, cafeteria style. I was a little weary about the raw egg but the hot noodles cooked it a little and it was delicious. The noodles were the perfect texture – thick and not too chewy. It was a great lunchtime score!

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Across the street was the Shinjuku Gyoen (means garden), which had this green house filled with all types of plants and flowers. The grounds also housed traditional English and French gardens, but we were most interested in the traditional Japanese garden area. There were manicured but natural looking plants, flowers and trees, with some tea houses, ponds with koi and people relaxing or picnicking everywhere.

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a cacao plant flowering!

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At one of the tea houses, we paid a vending machine for a tea ticket and went inside. It was a plain room with hard wooden benches and plain wooden tables. We were each served a tiny sweet – not sure what the filling was, but I suspect red bean. Then we were served each a bowl of matcha. It was nice to check it out, but we suspect tourist trap! Or we just weren’t there during traditional tea time.

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We headed to the metro again only to find one of the greatest vending machines so far. It was cold drinks, you could choose with or without ice (we did some experimenting to find that out!), and hot drinks. It poured it into a cup and then a little door opened automatically. I got a small cup of Coke with no ice, and John got a cup of grape juice with ice. It was the perfect tiny treat! Neither of us was brave enough to try the corn drink, though!

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We were on a tall, steep up escalator when we saw some familiar faces headed our way on the down stairs. The rest of our crow hopped back on the up escalator and we joined the rest of the tourists in a two story Starbucks to watch The Scramble. It’s a crazy five section intersection called Shibuya crossing.  The funniest part was watching tourists cross it with selfie sticks or stopping to take pictures in the middle of the road.

Next we headed downstairs to the Food Show, like a fancy food hall. We watched a girl make takoyaki, which are balls of fried dough with a piece of octopus inside. There were $8 apples and $140 cantaloupes. We tried cheesecake, sweet red beans (no thanks!), a tiny spoonful of roe so salty that it was spicy (!) and fish of all different preparations.

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We had dinner in a neighborhood called Ebisu. Again, went with my gut and popped in this tiny restaurant. It wasn’t quite full of people and we were sat at the counter, but the longer we say we noticed more and more people were coming in with reservations. First we were served a plate of cabbage with some sort of fish/soy sauce stuff drizzled on, then more yakatori: this time we got smoked cheese with grilled bread, shiitake, chicken thighs, chicken wings, asparagus wrapped in pork, okra, and pork back with wasabi. It all came out at different times, and the guy would just hand the skewers to us as they were done cooking. Simple, delicious and fun.

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“Arigato, arigato! Domo arigato, it was so great, awesome dude!” (I got a little excited) And this guy, who basically hadn’t indicated he knew English or anything, said “See you tomorrow!” It totally made my night.

Flowers & Fish

Because of our, ahem, early bedtime, we all woke up at about 3 am and decided to try for the fish market. We missed the tuna auction (seats are limited and rumored to basically be all taken by about 4), but wanted to walk around anyway. It’s basically a fend-for-yourself situation, since it’s a commercial operation. Cyclists, truck drivers and especially these guys on yellow fork lifts without the fork zoomed by, honking with no thought of slowing. IRL Frogger – less fun than the video game implies!

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ruthless!

Turns out, the fish market isn’t open to the public until 9, but the outer market and the breakfast sushi places were open. We chose one that was playing Abba and The Eagles, were immediately brought hot green tea and we pointed to the words “today’s recommendation” on the menu to order.

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img_0774img_0779We had a few more minutes until nine, so when we walked by a booth serving two pieces of o-toro tuna for 600 yen (apparently goes for much higher in the US), we snagged one and ate it standing right there. It might have been my favorite piece of fish all morning!
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We walked around some more, got some samples and checked out some really great vending machines.

Time to tackle the big boy (and I mean big! We never made all the way through the building): Tsujiki Fish Market. Tunas bigger than me, wiggling sea creatures, knives, swords and bandsaws fileting fish, and blood and guts everywhere.

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Wanting to check out a different neighborhood, we headed toward Ueno Park in search of an Azalea Festival. We stopped for ice cream, where we had our first vending machine/person service experience. These machines are everywhere – you put in your money, chose what you want and it prints a ticket for you to give the counter person. They have them in noodle shops, sushi restaurants, ice cream stands and all kinds of other places. Then we stumbled upon a ‘Traditional Arts & Crafts’ fair. The booths where demonstrating how to make Daruma dolls, write your name in Japanese alphabet characters, throwing star practice, and a booth to try on a kimono. We got some strangely long french fries topped with cod roe and mayo (pretty good) and Wagyu beef skewers (VERY good), and watched an acrobatic monkey show, until I got too bummed thinking about that monkey’s life.

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We headed to a different park nearby for the azaleas!

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When we got home to rest and recuperate, the school behind us was holding after school baseball practice. Let me tell you, those kids were noisy! Just shouting the ENTIRE time, but not in like a little kid way. We have a theory that that’s just how they play baseball – tbd when we head to the diamond on Saturday.

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We headed towards Shinjuku, the busy commercial area where we found the tiny streets full of tiny restaurants yesterday to finally get some yakatori in a tiny, TINY smoky restaurant. Yakatori is just grilled things on sticks – skewers cooked over coal just right there on the counter. The cook/server/cashier/ONLY EMPLOYEE (guess he’s all that would fit in there) gave us a plate of edamame and we ordered what looked like the greatest hits special set. Fish balls, chicken thighs, pork hearts, plus my two favorites: blistered green peppers and these really great chicken wings.

all lit up!